Riding the local bus from Lugano, Switzerland to Lake Como was our first entry into Italy – and that memory is still in the surreal category. All the other bus passengers were small town Italian housewives happily chatting and toting their groceries back home. As we crossed the border, the passport checker hopped on the bus, exchanged pleasantries with the ladies, and rolled his eyes at us. Then at Lake Como, we raced to the departing ferry, making action-hero leaps (with backpacks) onto the moving boat. Exhilarating? You bet. And then we turned to see this enchanting town of Varenna rising into view. It bewitched us then and still calls us back.